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Where do the Japanese spend Christmas Eve? In line at the local KFC.

Where do the Japanese spend Christmas Eve? In line at the local KFC.

JAL used to be my international carrier of choice for flying into Asia. NorthWest, which I’d used to fly the world just kept getting worse and worse culminating with a flight to Bangkok when an old hag hired as a flight attendant started screaming at passengers during the middle of the flight. In coach I’d put up with that. Up front you are supposed to be protected from the riffraff, not exposed to it as part of the in-flight entertainment. My travel agent (remember those?) suggested I try JAL instead. I did, and I fell in love with the Asian version of the friendly skies. It didn’t hurt that they offered great deals out of Honolulu either.

Even back on the mainland I still used JAL for several years. Then I tried out EVA after hearing more and more travellers rave about the airline. They did even better than JAL, and I preferred the SFO-TPE-BKK route over landing at Narita. But EVA too is offering less and less while charging more and more so I’ve been thinking of changing yet again. JAL was once again in the running for my business. Until I heard their latest news this week. The airline has teamed up with KFC to serve the Colonel’s version of fried chicken on flights between Japan and the U.S.

The airline will only be offering the finger lickin’ good treat in coach and premium economy, so it’s not like I’d have to eat the stuff. But just the thought of the smell of a plane load of people chowing down on KFC is enough to turn my stomach. Couldn’t they have just stuck with fermented beans?

Ronald McDonald would never pander to the locals like this.

Ronald McDonald would never pander to the locals like this.

The good news is JAL will only be offering KFC as its in-flight meal from December 1 through the end of February. It is a special feast for the Christmas holiday festivities. Because nothing says Merry Christmas like dinner at the Colonel’s. Don’t laugh. In Japan, dining at KFC for Christmas in big business and a tradition for many Japanese families. So much so that KFC branches recommend reserving your Christmas Chicken at least two months in advance in Tokyo.

From a Westener’s perspective, the Japanese are known to eat some pretty disgusting stuff. KFC has got to top the list. Out of all of the things you can do to a chicken to make it edible, whatever it is KFC does to theirs has got to be the lowest of lows. I’d prefer dining on balut rather than having to try to gag down what they try to convince consumers is fried chicken. Noom knows he stands a better chance of getting me to eat at a seafood restaurant than at KFC. And when he does, I make him brush his teeth before I’ll kiss him. I don’t know why he just doesn’t stick to cockroaches.

But even as right as trading sushi for KFC seems to be, you have to wonder what in the hell the Japanese are thinking. Sure Christmas is a foreign idea to them, but how did they mix up the fat jolly guy in red with the old man in white who looks like he has indigestion? Never underestimate the power of Madison Avenue. Even if it is the Japanese version.

JAL has managed to make KFC look even more unappetizing.

JAL has managed to make KFC look even more unappetizing.

According to the Colonel, the tradition of eating KFC – or Kentucky as it is known in Japan – at Christmas dates back to the early 1970s, when an expat customer at the chain’s Aoyama store observed that, in a land bereft of Yuletide turkey, fried chicken was the next best thing. The store’s canny manager was paying attention and passed word on to the higher-ups, leading the company to launch its ludicrously successful “Kurisumasu ni wa kentakkii!” (Kentucky for Christmas!) campaign in 1974 which centered around a pricey $10 chicken and wine meal. The rest is history. Or at least what passes for a Christmas tradition in Japan.

Company officials say KFC records its highest sales volume in Japan each year on Christmas Eve. The stores are so busy that even back office staff, including the president and other execs, head out to the frontlines to help. At some branches the wait for Christmas Chicken is two hours or longer. And KFC’s annual chicken push commercials are considered the start of the Christmas season in Japan. In Japan, Christmas is KFC.

Today, the traditional Christmas KFC party barrels sell for about $40 and includes fried chicken, a salad, and chocolate cake. But the holiday menu isn’t limited to fried chicken; KFC offers roast chicken, smoked chicken, even barbecue chicken for the Christmas Eve rush (fermented chicken has not yet been included in the offerings). The company says each store is limited in the amount of chicken it can fry, so they expanded the menu to make sure customers don’t go home empty-handed. KFC estimates it will sell more than 240,000 of their Christmas party barrels this year.

Of course the Japanese, not knowing any better, think chicken is what Americans eat for their Christmas meal too. That would only be true if Santa was out of lumps of coal and still felt the need to signal his displeasure with bad little girls and boys. Then again if the Japanese ever saw what the folk in Kentucky do consider as eatable – in Kentucky international cuisine means roadkill trucked in from Georgia – maybe they’d consider finding a new dining tradition for the Christmas holiday.

On second thought, roadkill might not be such a bad idea after all.

On second thought, roadkill might not be such a bad idea after all.

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