Being a confirmed wataholic I’ve never undrstood frequent visitors to Thailand who say they are watted out. Personally, I’ve never met a wat I didn’t like and seldom wander past one without taking at least a few minutes to step inside and look around. Each is unique, each is different, each has something to recommend a visit. Having said that, thanks to both the plethora of Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai and its close proximity to two other wats that look much the same, Wat Chetawan on Tha Pae Road suffers a bit of an identity crisis. Like its neighbors, Wat Mahawan and Wat Bupparam, Wat Chetawan was built in the late nineteenth century by Burmese teak merchants. The result is three very similar looking temples all within eyesight of each other. And while Wat Chetawan is much larger than Wat Mahawan across the street, it looks newer, at first glance offers less historical atmosphere, and by default often gets skipped by visitors who are not interested in checking out both. And that’s a shame.

Even the internet treats the three wats as a trio; Wat Chetawan seldom gets mentioned without equal play given to the other two wats. Wat Mahawan and Wat Bupparam however often get mentioned on their own and there is a lot more information about those two temples on-line. So other than the basic historical info of when and by whom Wat Chetawan was built there’s not much I can tell you about the temple. Except that it really does deserve a few minutes of your time. For its fanciful mythological creatures if for no other reason.

Opening from the street onto a large asphalt parking lot that does little to draw visitors in, Wat Chetawan’s wiharn is the main focal point. Like at Wat Mahawan, the wiharn’s facade is ornately carved in gold overlaid on a shimmering green background. It is an impressive sight when you catch it in the early morning sun. There are also colorful murals depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life over the temple’s exterior doors and windows. But what you’ll probably notice instead are the pair of large singha guarding the wiharn’s entrance. They’re the first of the temple’s stone menagerie to greet you.

Just to the west of the wiharn are the wat’s three chedi which combine both Thai and Burmese architecture. One is done in white and mimics the stupa at Wat Mahawan. The other two are more heavily influenced by Burmese traditions and are decorated with fabulous beasts from Hindu mythology. At ground level a pair of red-eyed naga that look suspiciously like dragons flank a short set of steps; what I assume are Hanuman but which look much more like the flying monkeys from the Wizard of Oz perch higher around the chedi’s perimeter. And one of my favorite statuary beasts in Chiang Mai – which may or may not be a moms but misses the ferocious mark in favor of being just plain dopey – glares at visitors too – with the same effect as a golden retriever .

Wat Chetawan doesn’t get many visitors, those who simply pass by take a quick look from street-side, assume it is just yet another look-a-like wat, and keep on walking. Yet it is a perfect example of why you should always take a few minutes to check out a wat further. Its wiharn may look like many others in town, and its chedi may not be as grand as the one at Watt Chedi Luang, but few temples offer such a concise sample of Hindu creatures and beasts as you’ll find at Wat Chetawan. Even if it is a Buddhist temple.

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