I’ve been working on a post of the Top Ten Things NOT To Do In Bangkok, and winnowing the list is a never ending chore. Too many bad choices for touri to select from. Then I ran across a recent forum post where some fool listed a visit to Jim Thompson’s House as one the top daytime outings in Bangkok. My immediate reaction was WTF? Out of all the incredible sights and experiences Bangkok has to offer a first time visitor, making a pilgrimage to Jim Thompson’s store house comes out on top? What an exotic choice! A quick flight back to Idaho would be icing on the cake.
While Jim Thompson’s House of Blah is on my Not To Do list, it really stands out far above the rest and deserves its own post. Though it routinely shows up in travel guides and on website lists ranking in the Top Ten of things to do in Bangkok, in reality it barely qualifies for a spot in the top 100. Maybe. If you’re being generous.
Jim Thompson’s is a historical teakwood residence/compound that, while nice, is really nothing more than a retail operation pushing overpriced Thai silk clothing and assorted souvenirs. With a smattering of historical local art to view. Jim is credited with starting the whole Thai silk industry. And he mysteriously disappeared. Yawn. Truth of the matter is Jim didn’t start the Thai silk industry. The Thais did. Long before Jimmy boy came along. Jim no more started the Thai silk industry than Al Gore invented the internet. JT did nothing more than boost his sales through an aggressive marketing scheme. Mysteriously disappeared? Ha! Jim dissed the entire Thai nation with his claims. He didn’t disappear, he got what was coming to him. That shit just doesn’t fly in Thailand. And Jim wasn’t the first, or the last farang businessman to find out what happens when you piss off the locals in Thailand. (Yes, I know: Jimmy T disappeared in Malaysia not Thailand. And Jimmy Hoffa disappeared in Michigan, not New Jersey.)
Sure by visiting Jim’s you get the opportunity of buying a Jim Thompson original. At one time it was quite fashionable to have a nice Thai silk outfit, for both men and women. That was back when Al Jolsen’s voice was first heard in the movies. There was a slight revival during the 80’s when the clueless took their fashion tips from Miami Vice. Today, that silk outfit is kinda like buying a muumuu in Hawaii. It’s fashion that just doesn’t travel well. If you can’t resist draping yourself in Thai silk, there are Jim Thompson outlets at the malls, and a branch right on Suriwong in Patpong, you don’t need to trek all the way across town to pick up some silk duds, and pay an admission fee to do so. Better yet, go to MBK and buy a non-Jim Thompson original for half the price. For the truly adventurous, skip the staid and take a look at the offerings by emerging Thai designers instead.
But Jim’s place is a nice teakwood house, and a pretty riverside location. If teakwood structures are your thing – because you are an architect or over 80 – then pass his place by and head over to the Vimanmek Mansion instead. It’s bigger, nicer, and Thai royalty lived in it. A Thai King vs. a dead farang merchant. Your pick.
And the art? There’s a little place called the National Museum that is rumored to have maybe one or two more pieces on display. At half the admission price. And they offer overpriced souvenirs there too, just in case you thought you’d be left out.
A visit to Jim Thompson’s house would qualify as a Stupid Touri Trick if the choice had just a bit more integrity to it. Maybe you could throw in a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya river to raise the stakes. A nice outing featuring overpriced bland Thai clothing* and overpriced bland Thai food should do the trick.
*Make sure you pick out a piece with little elephants on it. Nothing is more fashionable than a Thai silk garment with little elephants on it!
Glenn said:
Miami Vice was in the 80s not the early 70s
dropdeadguys said:
Ah a decade here, a decade there . . . but you’re right. Thanks!
George said:
AHHHH you have broken my heart.
I really enjoyed seeing Jim’s House. But then I am an Architect and it fed all my fantasies of having a OLD Thai house (or three) overlooking a Klong. Too bad it did not have AirCon!!!
What do you think of M.R. Kukrit’s house in BKK???
dropdeadguys said:
Sorry George . . . but I did give architects a pass! And thanks for reminding me about the former prime minister’s place. Nice daytime outing in Bangkok, and no one trying to sell you siilk.
Nick said:
Interesting, but I have to say I don’t agree with most of this post. I’m not much attracted to the House, but every single friend visiting Bangkok over the last 7 years has loved it – without exception. I guess they must have poor taste! It’s easier to get to because of the Skytrain station at the end of the soi. Vimanmek Mansion is lovely, but it completely lacks the intimacy of the Jim Thomson residence. Also don’t think you are correct in suggesting anyone claims that Jim Thomson started the Thai Silk industry. I have always heard that he revived the industry after the war.
dropdeadguys said:
That’s okay Nick, somebody has to keep the place in business or all those guidebooks will have to actually update their contents for a change. Um, but I heard Beachlover loves JT’s place . . . does that change your mind?
🙂
Nick said:
Ha! Not at all. I’ll go more often and then I can tell the world who BL really is!
Al said:
Hmmm, I thought also that it was overrated. I guess though that it’s one of those must do once things when you need to pass some time ’til the bars open. The little origami birds gifted to you on leaving was a nice touch. Who would have thought? Japanese, Thai, American cultural melting pot.
JD said:
Your comment “Jim is credited with starting the whole Thai silk industry.” is wrong. Get your facts right. He is credited with RE-starting the industry after it had basically died. There’s a big difference.
Bangkokbois said:
Really JD?
You didn’t notice the snarky, sarcastic tone of this post and thought you were reading a Wikipedia article instead?